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Hemorrhoid Boulder
Hemorrhoid Boulder ** Pretty fun boulder with an easy enough approach to be a roadside
boulder without being too close to the road for kids and dogs. A lowball boulder with a lot of
moderates close to picnic tables and a pond.
Directions: From US 50 west of the "Y" head south on Sawmill Road and take a near immediate left at the kids fishing pond and park their. Walk down the OHV road and the boulder is one the right about 100 yards down the road behind a split rail fence.
Directions: From US 50 west of the "Y" head south on Sawmill Road and take a near immediate left at the kids fishing pond and park their. Walk down the OHV road and the boulder is one the right about 100 yards down the road behind a split rail fence.
1. *V5 Start by the right arete and traverse the slopey
rail left to a couple crimp then crux match on a sloper
make a move to a good knob and head up the arete.
1a. V8? Same start, but traverse all the way to a top out at number
2. V1** Sit/Low Start matched on the big knob and head up.
3. **V1 SDS on a pair of right facing side pulls make a move up to a gaston and then work the diagonal crack into #2.
3a. **V1 same start, but move up to a good crimp then right through the big knobs.
3b. **V3 same start, but move up to the good crimp then up through sidepulls and crimps.
4. **V3 SDS on a rail and positive undercling/sidepull move right to a good sloper then to a slopey ear and up. Tricky.
4. V3? same start, but head staight up through some tricky small knob and a small roof. I've heard this goes at V3, but that seemed sandbagged to me. Perhaps a tricky, flesh rending kneebar makes this a V3.
5. ***V4 Sit/Low Start on a sharp right hand crimp and a left hand sloper in a crescent shape, make a big move left to a jug then bump your right up a series of sloper to a good hold a mantle and a top out. Good fun, feels a little easy for a V4, but the moves are tricky if you are short.
6. **V5 SDS at the arete with a good right hand pocket and a rail with several left hand options, head through a thin low crux and up to a jug haul.
7. V? There is a much thinner left side of the arete
8. V9? V9 Dyno I hear. Its got a bad landing and it looks hard. Their are some crimps and slopers in the diagonal crack system and it looks possible.
9. V0R* Work the right side of the arete, watch the rock at your back if you are falling
10. *V3/4 SDS on the gritty slopey rail and make a few moves to the horn, and a graceless top out.
up into #4, though the good jug is off.
1a. V8? Same start, but traverse all the way to a top out at number
2. V1** Sit/Low Start matched on the big knob and head up.
3. **V1 SDS on a pair of right facing side pulls make a move up to a gaston and then work the diagonal crack into #2.
3a. **V1 same start, but move up to a good crimp then right through the big knobs.
3b. **V3 same start, but move up to the good crimp then up through sidepulls and crimps.
4. **V3 SDS on a rail and positive undercling/sidepull move right to a good sloper then to a slopey ear and up. Tricky.
4. V3? same start, but head staight up through some tricky small knob and a small roof. I've heard this goes at V3, but that seemed sandbagged to me. Perhaps a tricky, flesh rending kneebar makes this a V3.
5. ***V4 Sit/Low Start on a sharp right hand crimp and a left hand sloper in a crescent shape, make a big move left to a jug then bump your right up a series of sloper to a good hold a mantle and a top out. Good fun, feels a little easy for a V4, but the moves are tricky if you are short.
6. **V5 SDS at the arete with a good right hand pocket and a rail with several left hand options, head through a thin low crux and up to a jug haul.
7. V? There is a much thinner left side of the arete
8. V9? V9 Dyno I hear. Its got a bad landing and it looks hard. Their are some crimps and slopers in the diagonal crack system and it looks possible.
9. V0R* Work the right side of the arete, watch the rock at your back if you are falling
10. *V3/4 SDS on the gritty slopey rail and make a few moves to the horn, and a graceless top out.
up into #4, though the good jug is off.